Let the Bad Waves Pass
Of course, there will also be ugly waves: close-outs, waves that are too crowded, warbled frothy monsters. Perfect surf days are about as rare as days you wake up feeling ecstatic about going to work. And even when the conditions are great, interestingly enough, there are a lot more waves to pass on in surfing (and in life) than there are good waves to ride. So learn to recognize the negative waves your mind churns out again and again. When you see a gnarly swell of fear, insecurity, jealousy, or anger approaching, relax. Let it pass, or duckdive under it. At first, this is easier said than done. We're so greedy for experience that we like to chase the waves constantly, even the bad ones. It takes a whole lot of beatings to learn to be patient and wait for the right one. Just remember, once a bad wave takes you down, the worst thing you can do is fight it. Relax until the wave has released you of its grip. Know that it will pass. Surface when it lets you go, and paddle back out with a smile.