Here’s what I saw, all within the space of 30 seconds today:
-A woman pulling down her toddler’s tights, and holding her sort of seated over the edge of a curb. So she could. You know.
-A woman wielding a squeegee and a bucket, at a corner, waiting for traffic. Not aggressive like the notorious New York Squeegee Guys, but that was the first I’d seen of that in Rome.
-Machine gun-wielding Italian Army soldiers, as a well as a few in a parked jeep, standing in front of the Iranian consulate.
Now, the Romans among you are saying – what was she doing out there?
Checking out two sites: S. Constanza and the Basilica of S. Agnes Outside the Walls. The visit was a mixed success. I got there early – before they reopen at 4, and hence the walk down the street (capped by an exquisite pastry). The first is wonderful and evocative and silent, still solemnity and memory. The mosaics are astonishing, even though they are quite difficult to see in the mixed light. Perhaps there is a time of day in which they are better lit, but looking at the  placing of the windows, I doubt it.  It looked like it was being set up for a wedding, with kneelers in front of the altar.
S. Agnes was fine, except I couldn’t get down into the catacomb. There was not a soul around to open it up and take anyone down, and I wasn’t the only person wandering around looking for someone. Oh well. Maybe next time.
Another site from today, while I’m thinking about sites: Two (I presume) gyspy beggar women greeting each other on the street, hale and hearty and cheerful. Then another gypsy beggar woman sitting on the steps of the Metro, one second, Senora, senora, oh, oh, the next greeting a well-dressed Italian guy with a Ciao! Ciao! as he bent down to kiss her in greeting and they spoke like old friends. Perhaps they are. Perhaps he’s a long-term supporter.